Disc Pad replacement

DIY: Replacing Your Disc Brake PadsWhat you will need: Wrenches,Jack,Jack Stands,Wirebrush,Screwdriver or pry bar,Pliers or vise grip,Hammer,Large c clamp or large pliers, Brake lube, and New brake parts Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin. Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don’t have to hurry. Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual. Safety is important whenever you’re working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials. Don’t substitute tools unless you’re sure you won’t compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass. Do one wheel at a time so you can use the other wheel as a reference in case you get confused. Check for any fluid leaks or cracked brake lines. Replace them as necessary. News source: About Autyo Repair CAUTION!!! Brake linings contain asbestos. Avoid creating or breathing dust when changing linings or cleaning parts. Use water to wash down the brakes before starting and wear gloves to avoid prolonged contact with your skin.Step One: Remove about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder and put it into a sealed container. Dispose of it properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid; always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid will eat paint so do not get it on your vehicles finish. If you do, wash it off (brake fluid is water soluble) with plenty of water. Using a lug wrench, crack the wheel lugs loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely. Jack one side of the vehicle up and support it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite side. Remove the lugs and take the wheels off. To remove the calipers: Floating Caliper: Remove the two caliper guide pins or bolts. Look at the locations and positions of any bushings or guides so they can be reinstalled properly. Rock the caliper back and forth to push the piston back enough to slide the caliper off. Remove the caliper. Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. Sliding Caliper: A support key or retaining clip holds the caliper to the caliper bridge. Remove the retaining bolt or screw holding the key and drive the key out with a suitable tool. Note the position of any springs or clips before you remove them. The retainers will simply lift off. Note the position of the retainers before you remove them. Remove the caliper. Remove the caliper. Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. Fixed Caliper: Remove the caliper mounting bolts only if the pads won’t come out the back of the caliper. Push back the piston before removing the old pads. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. Check the rotor for scores, rusting or pitting. It is recommended that the rotors be resurfaced to remove any imperfections and true up the braking surface to prevent brake pulsations. Remove the pads from the calipers Fixed Caliper: Remove any pins or retainers (push pads back and pull them out). Sliding Caliper: Separate the pads from the caliper. The inner pad must be clipped to the piston. The outer pad may be pinned, clipped or pressed tightly on the caliper. Some pads may remain on the adapter or anchor when the caliper is removed. Clean the caliper mounting surfaces with a wire brush and remove all the rust and dirt. The sliding surfaces must be as clean as possible for proper brake operation. Wet down the area with water to prevent dust. Allow parts to dryStep Two:Install the new brake pads in the reverse order of removal. Make sure any shims, clips and anti-rattle springs are in place. Some brake pads have ears that need to be crimped to the caliper when installed. You can use a large pair of Channel locks or a hammer to crimp the ears. If they can move, they will squeal. You can apply a high temperature, copper based grease to the back of the pads to help prevent squealing and transfer heat from the pads. Do not get any grease on the pad material itself. Replace the caliper on its mount and reinstall the guide pins, retainers or clips that you have removed. Use some of the high temperature, copper based grease to lubricate sliding surfaces. Some retaining keys need to be tapped into place with a hammer. Tighten all bolts being careful not to over tighten. Sponsored LinksDisc Brake RepairFree information and resources about Disc Brake RepairBrake-Repair.big.comReplacing Brake ShoesDrum Brake Shoe Replacement Car Care Articles and Advice[url”>www.autoMedia.comNeed new rotors ? ? ?buy from the specialists huge range quality parts low $$ shipped fast[url”>www.perfectbrakes.comNever use standard “hardware store” bolts. If you have to replace hardware, get the proper parts from the auto parts store. Special high-tensile hardware are used exclusively in this application. Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid from a sealed container and bleed the brakes if required