Category Archives: Tech

Anti Lock Brake

Anti-Lock Brake System Service Precautions from Raybestos [Courtesy 1998 Brake Parts Inc. & Online Technologies Corporation, Raybestos, all rights reserved”> 1.Always refer to the appropriate anti-lock service manual before attempting to service any portion of the brake system. 2.Warning: Some ABS systems store brake fluid in an accumulator under high pressure. Failure to depressurize these types of anti-lock systems before servicing can cause physical injury! The majority of these ABS systems can be depressurized by simply turning off the ignition and firmly depressing the brake pedal between 20 and 40 times. Check service manual for exact number. 3.Use the proper DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid specified by the vehicle manufacturer. This can be found on the master cylinder cap or reservoir body. DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid can not be used in any ABS system. 4.Do not hammer or pry on wheel speed sensors and/or sensor rings to adjust the air gap. These components are delicate and can easily be damaged! 5.ABS and other on-board computer can be easily damaged by high electrical system voltage. Do not attempt to jump start an ABS equipped vehicle with a Fuel powered booster or 110 volt type battery charger on the fast charge/ boost setting. Slow charge the battery first before attempting to start. If this is impractical, disconnect the negative battery cable before fast charging the battery. 6.All four tires must be of the same size and type. Failure to observe this rule can cause the ABS and/or Traction Control system to disengage and the warning light to come on. Follow the vehicle manufactures recommendations before installing any optional tire sizes. 7.Never unplug or reconnect any electrical ABS component with the ignition on. This can cause a current surge and damage one or more of the system components. 8.When installing any “add on” electrical accessories’ (CB’s, Telephones, Stereos, etc.), it is important that any antennas or other wiring be located away from the ABS computer and sensor wiring. A magnetic field is generated as current flows through this additional wiring. The magnetic field that is created produces electro-magnetic interference (EMI) that can affect the signals from the wheel speed sensor to the ABS computer. 9.When electrical welding on a vehicle, it is recommended that all of the computers be disconnected from the wiring harness to prevent possible damage. Care should be taken not to damage the connectors. 10.When replacing unitized wheel bearings, half shafts, steering knuckles, or any other component that could affect the air gap between the wheel speed sensor and sensor ring, then the air gap must be checked. 11.When servicing disc brakes, open the bleeder screws and vent the brake fluid, if it is necessary to push the caliper pistons in. There is sediment that naturally collects in calipers over a period of time. This sediment, if allowed to flow back into the master cylinder along with the brake fluid, can possibly damage the ABS hydraulic unit. [Editor’s Note: see above notes on clamping the rubber brake lines.”> ——————————————————————————– News source: Raybestos

Chrysler Transmssion Problems

This page is designed to help you to quickly and cheaply fix your “bad” Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth four-speed automatic transmission for your front wheel drive car or minivan. Here are the most likely culprits, each of which can probably be fixed either by you or by a local mechanic for under $100:Incorrect transmission fluid (cost: $40-60) – most common problem! Solenoid pack (cost: about $60-$150 plus labor. May just be clogged.) Computer needs retraining (cost: time) Ground strap broken/missing – may be misdiagnosed as needing a new transmission and/or computer! (cost: $10) Bad input sensor (according to D. Philbrook, very common!) – “Can be seen on scan tool screen as input rpm –if it’s 0, replace the sensor.” Computer firmware needs upgrade (cost: Chrysler dealer should do this for free; may be up to $200) Incorrect filter used Loose electrical connection (cost: time) Leaking seals (cost: rebuilding) Torque converter problems – see the bump shift section Note: if you are having the “bump shift” see the bump shift section, below News source: ALLPAR As detailed in a 1995 technical service bulletin, 18-24-95, many issues (including the infamous “bump shift”) can be resolved by updating the computer’s flash ROM (where possible), and carefully going through a retraining process. Dealers can and should do this free of charge before any other work is undertaken (except of course for the transmission fluid change). (See below for the retraining process).Michael Richards wrote: The Transmission Control Module (TCM) is another item that deserves mention. I found a TSB indicating a flash upgrade (software?) was needed to eliminate hard/erratic shift problems after 2 dealers told me I needed a $1600 transmission rebuild. I insisted they perform the upgrade first. The TCM refused to accept the upgrade so I had them replace it (they did it under protest). Now my transmission works like new. It cost ‘just’ $200. Something to consider.[If the transmission fails after takeoff, check”> the electrical terminal that bolts into the computer housing that is mounted on the transmission. This is an electrical terminal and it bolts on to the computer box that is below the radiator fan and mounted on the transmission. Because of the poor design of this terminal it becomes a well and holds water. This happend to me on my 1992 3.3 Voyager. The transmission would not change gears without turning off the ignition to reset the computer. I used air to blow it out and the problem was solved. [I discovered it when replacing the sensors based on the advice on your site.”> Webmaster note: Chrysler integrated their engine and transmission computers later in the decade.

Disc Pad replacement

DIY: Replacing Your Disc Brake PadsWhat you will need: Wrenches,Jack,Jack Stands,Wirebrush,Screwdriver or pry bar,Pliers or vise grip,Hammer,Large c clamp or large pliers, Brake lube, and New brake parts Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin. Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don’t have to hurry. Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual. Safety is important whenever you’re working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials. Don’t substitute tools unless you’re sure you won’t compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass. Do one wheel at a time so you can use the other wheel as a reference in case you get confused. Check for any fluid leaks or cracked brake lines. Replace them as necessary. News source: About Autyo Repair CAUTION!!! Brake linings contain asbestos. Avoid creating or breathing dust when changing linings or cleaning parts. Use water to wash down the brakes before starting and wear gloves to avoid prolonged contact with your skin.Step One: Remove about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder and put it into a sealed container. Dispose of it properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid; always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid will eat paint so do not get it on your vehicles finish. If you do, wash it off (brake fluid is water soluble) with plenty of water. Using a lug wrench, crack the wheel lugs loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely. Jack one side of the vehicle up and support it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite side. Remove the lugs and take the wheels off. To remove the calipers: Floating Caliper: Remove the two caliper guide pins or bolts. Look at the locations and positions of any bushings or guides so they can be reinstalled properly. Rock the caliper back and forth to push the piston back enough to slide the caliper off. Remove the caliper. Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. Sliding Caliper: A support key or retaining clip holds the caliper to the caliper bridge. Remove the retaining bolt or screw holding the key and drive the key out with a suitable tool. Note the position of any springs or clips before you remove them. The retainers will simply lift off. Note the position of the retainers before you remove them. Remove the caliper. Remove the caliper. Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. Fixed Caliper: Remove the caliper mounting bolts only if the pads won’t come out the back of the caliper. Push back the piston before removing the old pads. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted. Check the rotor for scores, rusting or pitting. It is recommended that the rotors be resurfaced to remove any imperfections and true up the braking surface to prevent brake pulsations. Remove the pads from the calipers Fixed Caliper: Remove any pins or retainers (push pads back and pull them out). Sliding Caliper: Separate the pads from the caliper. The inner pad must be clipped to the piston. The outer pad may be pinned, clipped or pressed tightly on the caliper. Some pads may remain on the adapter or anchor when the caliper is removed. Clean the caliper mounting surfaces with a wire brush and remove all the rust and dirt. The sliding surfaces must be as clean as possible for proper brake operation. Wet down the area with water to prevent dust. Allow parts to dryStep Two:Install the new brake pads in the reverse order of removal. Make sure any shims, clips and anti-rattle springs are in place. Some brake pads have ears that need to be crimped to the caliper when installed. You can use a large pair of Channel locks or a hammer to crimp the ears. If they can move, they will squeal. You can apply a high temperature, copper based grease to the back of the pads to help prevent squealing and transfer heat from the pads. Do not get any grease on the pad material itself. Replace the caliper on its mount and reinstall the guide pins, retainers or clips that you have removed. Use some of the high temperature, copper based grease to lubricate sliding surfaces. Some retaining keys need to be tapped into place with a hammer. Tighten all bolts being careful not to over tighten. Sponsored LinksDisc Brake RepairFree information and resources about Disc Brake RepairBrake-Repair.big.comReplacing Brake ShoesDrum Brake Shoe Replacement Car Care Articles and Advice[url”>www.autoMedia.comNeed new rotors ? ? ?buy from the specialists huge range quality parts low $$ shipped fast[url”>www.perfectbrakes.comNever use standard “hardware store” bolts. If you have to replace hardware, get the proper parts from the auto parts store. Special high-tensile hardware are used exclusively in this application. Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid from a sealed container and bleed the brakes if required

Catalytic Converters

Catalytic Converters The term Catalytic Converter covers the stainless steel box mounted in the exhaust system. Inside the cover is the catalyst, a ceramic or metallic base with an active coating incorporating alumina, ceria and other oxides and combinations of the precious metals platinum, palladium and rhodium. The base can be protected from vibration and shock by a resilient ceramic or metallic ‘mat’img”>images/news/icons/source.gif[/img”> News source: About Auto Repair The main by-products of combustion are: Nitrogen gas (N2): Our atmosphere is 78 percent nitrogen gas, and most of this passes right through the car engine. Carbon Dioxide (CO2): A harmless, odorless gas composed of carbon and oxygen. It is also a greenhouse gas that contributes to global warming. Water vapor (H2O): Another by-product of combustion. Sponsored LinksScrap Converter BuyersTop prices paid for any quantity of used catalytic converters.[url”>www.adccatalyticconverters.comBuy a Catalytic ConverterCatalytic Converters on Sale now We Match or Beat any Price![url”>www.autopartswarehouse.comFree Catalytic ConverterMagnaflow Universal Catalytic Converter. Submit Offers.automotive-offer.comThe hydrogen in the fuel bonds with the oxygen in the air. These three emissions are mostly harmless, although carbon dioxide emissions are believed to contribute to global warming. However since the combustion process is never perfect, other more harmful emissions are produced in the process. Carbon monoxide (CO): A colorless, odorless gas. It is poisonous and extremely dangerous in confined areas, building up slowly to toxic levels without warning if adequate ventilation is not available. Hydrocarbons or volatile organic compounds (VOCs): Any chemical compound made up of hydrogen and carbon. Oxides of nitrogen (NOx): Chemical compounds of nitrogen, they combine with hydrocarbons to produce smog. These are the three main regulated emissions, and also the ones that catalytic converters are designed to reduce. Catalytic converters can either be an oxidation or three-way type. Oxidation catalysts convert carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC) to carbon dioxide (CO2) and water, but have little effect on nitrogen oxides (NOx) and particulate matter. Three-way catalysts operate in a closed-loop system together with a lambda, or oxygen, sensor to regulate the air/fuel ratio on Fuel engines. The catalyst can then at the same time oxidize CO and HC to CO2 and water while reducing NOx to nitrogen. Most cars today are equipped with a three-way catalytic converter. The term Three-way refers to the three emissions it helps to reduce, carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons or volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and NOx molecules. The converter uses two different types of catalysts, a reduction catalyst and an oxidization catalyst. Both types consist of a base structure coated with a catalyst such as platinum, rhodium and/or palladium. The scheme is to create a structure that exposes the maximum surface area of the catalyst to the exhaust flow, while also minimizing the amount of catalyst required. The inside of the catalytic converter is a honeycomb set of passageways or small ceramic beads coated with catalysts. A chemical reaction takes place to make the pollutants less harmful. There are many passages for the exhaust gases to flow, to allow for the maximum amount of surface area for the hot gases to pass. In order to reduce emissions, modern car engines carefully control the amount of fuel they burn. They try to keep the air-to-fuel ratio very close to the stoichiometric point, which is the calculated ideal ratio of air to fuel. Theoretically, at this ratio, all of the fuel will be burned using all of the oxygen in the air. For Fuel engines the stoichiometric ratio is about 14.7:1. This means that for every pound of Fuel, 14.7 pounds of air will be burned. As engine and driving conditions change, this ratio changes as well. Sometimes it will run richer or leaner than the ideal 14.7:1.The Reduction Catalyst: The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the catalytic converter. It uses platinum and rhodium to help reduce the NOx emissions. When an NO or NO2 molecule contacts the catalyst, the catalyst rips the nitrogen atom out of the molecule and holds on to it, freeing the oxygen in the form of O2. The nitrogen atoms bond with other nitrogen atoms that are also stuck to the catalyst, forming N2.Oxidation Catalysts: Palladium (Pd) and platinum (Pt) metals in very small amounts convert the hydrocarbons of unburned Fuel and carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide and water. This catalyst aids the reaction of the CO and hydrocarbons with the remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas. But where did this oxygen come from?The third stage is a control system that monitors the exhaust stream, and uses this information to regulate the air/fuel mixture. There is an oxygen sensor mounted in front of the catalytic converter, meaning it is between the engine and the converter. The O2 sensor tells the engine ECU how much oxygen is in the exhaust.The ECU can increase or decrease the amount of oxygen in the exhaust by adjusting the air/fuel mixture. In this way the ECU can make sure that the engine is running as close to the stoichiometric point, and also ensure there is enough oxygen in the exhaust to allow the oxidization catalyst to burn the unburned hydrocarbons and CO.The catalytic converter does an efficient job of reducing the vehicle emissions, but there are ways it can be improved. Sponsored LinksBuy a Catalytic ConverterCatalytic Converters on Sale now We Match or Beat any Price![url”>www.autopartswarehouse.comCatalytic ConvertersOEM and Aftermarket Converters VW, Audi, Honda, Volvo and others.[url”>www.performancecatalytic.comFree Catalytic ConverterMagnaflow Universal Catalytic Converter. Submit Offers.automotive-offer.comOne of the biggest drawbacks is that it only works at a fairly high temperature. When you start your car cold, the catalytic converter does next to nothing to reduce the vehicle emissions. The catalytic converter does an efficient job of reducing the vehicle emissions, but there are ways it can be improved. One of the biggest drawbacks is that it only works at a fairly high temperature. When you start your car cold, the catalytic converter does next to nothing to reduce the vehicle emissions. The simplest solution is to move the catalytic converter closer to the engine. This allows hot exhaust gases to get to the converter and it heat it up faster. This could also reduce the life of the converter by exposing it to extremely high temperatures. Most carmakers position the converter under the front seats, just far enough from the engine to keep the temperature at a level that will not damage it.The simplest solution is to move the catalytic converter closer to the engine. This allows hot exhaust gases to get to the converter and it heat it up faster. This could also reduce the life of the converter by exposing it to extremely high temperatures. Most carmakers position the converter under the front seats, just far enough from the engine to keep the temperature at a level that will not damage it.Why do converters go bad? There are two ways a converter can fail, it can become clogged or it can be poisoned. When catalytic converters fail they normally clog up with debris and block the flow of exhaust gas from getting out of the system. This will cause tremendous performance problems. In extreme cases it will prevent the vehicle from starting at all. Most of the time it just limits engine performance by choking the flow through the engine. So how do you check a catalytic converter without removing it from the car?? Sometimes an indication that a converter is clogged is that you don’t go any faster when you push the gas pedal down. In addition there usually is a noticeable drop in fuel economy associated with a clogged catalytic converter. A totally clogged converter will cause the engine to die because of the increased backpressure. There is no way for anyone to actually see a clog in a converter. Usually the only way to tell if a catalytic converter is clogged is to remove it and check the change in engine performance. When a mechanic suspects a clogged converter they may remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe and see if there is a change in performance. A catalytic converter relies on receiving the proper mix of exhaust gases at the proper temperature. Some engine oil additives or engine problems that cause the mixture or the temperature of the exhaust gases to change reduce the effectiveness and life of the catalytic converter. Leaded Fuel and the over-use of fuel additives can shorten the life of a catalytic converter considerably. Even some gasket sealers and cements can poison a converter. A catalytic converter can also fail because of certain other factors. A number of problems could occur to the catalytic converter as the result of an engine that is out of tune. Any time an engine is operating outside proper specifications, unnecessary wear and damage may be caused to the catalytic converter as well as the engine itself. The damage is often the result of an incorrect air/fuel mixture, incorrect timing, or misfiring spark plugs. Any of these conditions could lead to a catalytic converter failure or worse.Fouled plugs can cause unburned fuel to overheat the converter and melt the catalyst to a solid mass. If the O2 Sensor is not functioning properly it will give the ECU incorrect readings of exhaust gasses. The faulty sensor can cause an excessively rich or excessively lean condition. If the mixture is too rich, the catalyst can melt down. If the mixture is too lean, the converter is unable to convert the hydrocarbons into safe elements.Oil or antifreeze entering the exhaust system can block the air passages by creating heavy carbon soot that coats the catalyst. These heavy carbon deposits will cause two problems. First, the carbon deposits prevent the catalytic converter from reducing harmful emission in the exhaust flow. And second, the carbon deposits clog the pores in the ceramic catalyst and block exhaust flow, increasing backpressure and causing heat and exhaust to back up into the engine compartment. Sponsored LinksBuy a Catalytic ConverterCatalytic Converters on Sale now We Match or Beat any Price![url”>www.autopartswarehouse.comFree Catalytic ConverterMagnaflow Universal Catalytic Converter. Submit Offers.automotive-offer.comCatalytic Converters?Brief and Straightforward Guide to Catalytic Converterswisegeek.comYour engine may actually draw burnt exhaust gasses back into the combustion chamber and dilute the efficiency of the next burn cycle. The result is a loss of power and overheated engine components.Catalytic converters can be physically damaged as well. The catalyst contained inside a catalytic converter is made from a lightweight, thin-walled, fragile material. It is protected by a dense, insulating mat. This mat holds the catalyst in place and provides moderate protection against damage. Broken support hangers can cause the converter to bounce around and the result can be breakage of the mat. Rocks or other road debris can also hit the converter, causing the internal mat to break also. Off road vehicles often suffer this type of converter failure. Once this mat starts to break up, it will collect in the smaller passages and clog the converter.The catalytic converter should last the lifetime of the vehicle it is installed in. if it does fail, it is most often a symptom of another problem. This problem must be identified and repaired or the new converter will fail in the same manner. You can keep it running well by keeping the ignition system in top shape and to prevent any unburnt fuel from entering the catalytic converter.Here is an important safety reminder: Do not park your car over tall grass or piles of dry leaves. Your cars perfectly running catalytic converter gets very hot… enough to start fires!

Brake Fluid change

Changing the many fluids in a vehicle is always a change for the better. Dirty engine oil, transmission fluid or anti-freeze are bad news for a car. But what about brake fluid? Many motorists know that this fluid should be topped off, but changed? According to the Car Care Council brake fluid in the typical vehicle can become contaminated in two years or less. This is because the fluid absorbs moisture, which works its way through the hydraulic system. Under heavy braking conditions, such as those encountered in mountainous or hilly driving or when towing a trailer, moisture in the overheated fluid vaporizes (boiling point of water is lower than that of brake fluid) and braking efficiency is reduced. “Even under normal driving conditions this condition can develop if the brake fluid is seriously contaminated” says Rich White, spokesperson for the Car Care Council. “Not only is the fluid vulnerable to vaporizing, it also can freeze. Brake fluid must maintain a stable viscosity throughout its operating temperature range. If it’s too thick or too thin, braking action is impaired. Beyond the vaporization hazard, moisture creates an additional problem for owners of vehicles equipped with anti-lock braking (ABS) systems. Rusted and corroded ABS components are very expensive to replace. How does a car owner know when to have fluid changed? The Council recommends replacement every two years or 24,000 miles. “Certainly it should be included with brake pad or shoe replacement,” White emphasizes. “In between, as a preventive measure, a professional brake technician should check the condition of the fluid with an accurate fluid test safety meter, which is inserted into the master cylinder reservoir to record the fluid’s boiling point News source:

Transmission Flush

Should you have your transmission flushed or just change the fluid & filter?First always change the filter.If you have under a 100K on your vehicle and have never done any heavy towing and the fluid looks not great but OK then it is a toss up fluid and filter is slightly cheaper.If the fluid looks bad or you have towed then flush it and replace the filter.Over a 100K and never touched the trans then only change the filter and fluid the particles in the fluid may be all that is keeping it working if the fluid looks really burnt then you have to chance a flush but you dont need to use a machine. remove the return hose to the cooling system and pump out the fluid replace the hose change the filter and refill messy but cheaper Also I recommend adding Lube Gard after any trans service

Use caution

RICHFIELD TOWNSHIP (WJRT) – (08/21/06)–A Mid-Michigan man lost his life in an auto repair accident Monday night. Witnesses are calling it one of the most horrific scenes they have ever seen.It all happened shortly before 7 p.m. Paramedics were called to a home on the 4800 Block of Coldwater Road in Genesee County’s Richfield Township. That’s where they found a man unconscious.They later learned he had been trapped underneath a vehicle he was trying to fix. Police say the victim died shortly after he was taken to the hospital.Neighbors say they would frequently see the man repairing vehicles from his home. Monday night they were wondering what went wrong.”They pulled him out. He was blue,” said Travis Yorks.It was the scene of a home auto repair accident gone terribly wrong.”When I arrived on scene he was unconscious,” said Richfield Township Police Department Officer Melissa Galloway.Richfield Township police say a man in his early 40s was working underneath a black GMC Jimmy when he became trapped.”It appeared he was working on his driveshaft when the vehicle rolled back off the of the hill there and rolled back onto him,” Galloway said. “That is what it appears happened.””It was something I don’t want to see again, Yorks said. “I really don’t even want to explain it. It was a mess.”Yorks lives across the street. He says he saw the victim when a neighbor called on him for help.”The one neighbor had a jack,” Yorks said. “I helped him pick it up so we could get a block underneath the jack, and we jacked it up and we pulled it up. That was it.”Paramedics began CPR when they arrived on the scene. In critical condition, the victim died shortly thereafter.”I work on cars a lot, so it makes me think twice about using jacks and safety and stuff,” Yorks said.Right now, police won’t say how long the victim was pinned under the vehicle. Some witnesses say it could have been at least 10 minutes or longer.The victim’s name isn’t being released pending family notification. News source: WJRT-TV 12 ABC Local

Top End Cleaner

GM’s “Top End Cleaner” – knock reducer in a can.Basic principle is that the PCV system spits oil back into the intake, carbon gets built up on the heads/valves, and result in detonation causing, raised hot spots.This stuff is pretty simple, suck it in while the engine is running, let it sit in the combustion chamber for some time, then burn it all off. It is available at most GM dealerships. I called a local GM dealer it was $6.18 a can. Part # 1050002. It will take roughly 2.5 hours to do. You will need a short piece of silicone vacuum line (the smallest internal diameter) 4mm Then take the red *straw* off of a spray can a 3″ piece of that straw and shove it in the end of the vacuum hose. Make sure it is in real tight. Push it in the vacuum hose until about a 1/2″ is sticking out. This is what you will use to draw the Top engine cleaner out of the can. With the engine running, remove the brake booster vacuum line. Once you take that plastic piece off, put a funnel in the end of it. Its best you figure out what funnel will fit that before you start all this. Put the end of the funnel on the hose, and then put the end of the silicone hose without the straw tip in the funnel. You will want to have opened the can of top engine cleaner to puncture the metal cap so when you are ready to begin, it is just a matter of unscrewing the cap. The idea here is to draw very slowly, with the plastic straw end. It will make the engine stall if you just submerge it, so just hold the end of the hose so it sucks small amounts of cleaner out. You will see what I mean about going slowly. Once you get down to about 1/3 of a can left take the hose setup and set it aside. Holding the funnel in one hand take the remaining top engine cleaner and dump it in the funnel. You will want to stall the engine out. So dump it fast. Then you can hook up the brake booster, and get it put back together. Let it sit for about 2 hours. Then start it up. It will be difficult to start. Then once it starts up, you will see lots of white smoke pour out the exhaust. So you may want to think of a place to do this, that you won’t disturb any neighbors . It is a lot of smoke, you’ll laugh once you do this. Get on the throttle a couple times and rev it to get the cleaner to burn out. The smoke should go away in about 5-10 minutes. That is about it. It is important that you do an oil change immediately. I usually don’t drive much more than 10 miles after I do the top engine cleaner, before I do an oil change.

Shady Mechanics

Sometimes you take the lid off a topic and find that you have opened an unexpected can of worms.The response was overwhelming to my column last week about my honest auto mechanic, John, who found that as an independent mechanic, he could not compete with the ever-increasing competition from car dealership repair shops. Among the auto repair rip-off horror stories and the auto mechanic recommendations I received from readers, there was one letter that stopped me in my tracks.It was from a reader who signed his e-mail with only one name — Bill. Bill’s correspondence described to me a murky world that few outsiders have ever been privy to. He outlined the unscrupulous details of his experiences as a mechanic for unethical repair shops.Of course, Bill can only describe the practices of the establishments he worked for. Certainly, every business has its own policies and procedures, and not all can be lumped into the same unsavory stew. With that in mind, let’s consider the information that Bill imparts. It’s food for thought: “I am now retired, but when I worked as a mechanic at large repair shops, we were told not to make problems when we were checking out vehicles, but we were told to find problems. Then we were told to be sure to ‘talk up’ what the damage could be to the customer’s car if the problems we found were not taken care of.””There was a kickback from whatever work we recommended that the customer had done. However, most of the money from this kickback was given to the mechanic in charge at the shop. If people came in for a ‘checkup’ and we told the shop foreman that we found nothing wrong with the car, he told us to look again and try to find something.””There were many times when I saw other mechanics doing shady things — like not doing required maintenance when they were supposed to. This was because usually we were forced to work on two or three cars at a time because someone else had promised that the cars would be done.””And while the labor rate was high, we were only paid a small portion of that rate; the shop got the rest.””I just wanted to say that you had a legitimate complaint when you wrote about trying to find an honest mechanic.” — Bill.I don’t know about you, but from now on, if I take my car into a repair shop and they start “talking up” the dangers of issues I didn’t come in for, they will be looking at the backside of my car driving off into the sunset before they have time to put a period at the end of their sentence. News source: Woman Motorist