Charge Indicator Intermittant, charging system problem 92 ford crown victoria Options

[asdfgh1]

Alternator is a Ford Motorcraft JF F1VU-BC: 95 amps. It is an IAR [internal alternator regulator] type alternator. The 'alternator idiot light' on the instrument panel has been coming on at highway speeds intermittently and the system has been charging at less than the recommended 14.5 volts at idle. I suspected a bad connector. I cleaned the battery and alternator terminals and applied a light coating of dielectric grease earlier this week, reconnected the wires and the idiot light did not come on at highway speeds for the next 2 days. Then the 'alternator idiot light' illuminated again and has been illuminated for 3 days of very short driving. I do not trust this car in its current condition. I took the car to the nearby parts store, had the charging system tested, and I was told that I needed a new alternator. The battery was at 65% of full charge when tested. Unconvinced of the validity of the diagnosis, I removed the alternator from the car. I carefully removed the specialized connector from the alternator stator terminal and removed the alternator from the engine compartment. I found that the plastic surrounding the stator blade was broken. I retrieved the broken piece. I conducted a bench test. The '1992 Ford Chilton" bench test [RECTIFIER SHORT OR GROUNDED & STATOR GROUNDED TEST on page 15-5] indicates that the alternator and regulator are OK. The stator blade is in excellent condition [I gently filed it clean a few days prior]. I want to glue the broken plastic stator connector parts back together so that I do not have to open the alternator case. This may require the permanent connection of the stator blade connector to the specialized connector on the end of the wire. Then I could cut the wire and install a new insulated connector upstream from the stator. Then I can use the '1992 Ford Chilton in-vehicle' testing that I found on pages 15-1 through 15-4 [see Chilton above]. I wish I had known about Chilton in-vehicle' testing before I removed the alternator! Do you think this is a good way to repair the alternator without opening the alternator case? Do you have some other suggestions? Perhaps I must open the case and replace the stator connector. What glue should I use that will withstand the heat and vibration in the proximity of the alternator? Am I on the correct path to solving this problem?

[Crew Chief]

Is the stator connector broken off or does it show signs of overheating if broken you could repair it with epoxy I would also replace the plug in connector available from Ford as a kit or at least it used to be they have discontinued many of these kits if so you should be able to find it aftermarket This connector is an inherent problem with this alt.
If it shows signs of overheating then check the connector if this to shows signs of overheating then do the above if only the stator shows OH signs then replace the alt and they are not cheap so if you have the time maybe try the above and see what transpires soubds like you know what you are doing good luck and let me know the outcome
Also the direct connection you suggest will work but be sure to check all the connections they spread apart and cause a bad connection causing overheating and failure

FYI I do not recommend dielectric grease on the battery terminals or for that matter any thing and do not use a battery protector washer or spray and never but anything between the terminal and the post the best protectant is a lite coating of clear lacquer but only on the posts not on the top of the battery it can cause transient voltage and may plug the vents on older batteries

[asdfgh1]

Is the stator connector broken off or does it show signs of overheating if broken you could repair it with epoxy I would also replace the plug in connector available from Ford as a kit or at least it used to be they have discontinued many of these kits if so you should be able to find it aftermarket This connector is an inherent problem with this alt.
If it shows signs of overheating then check the connector if this to shows signs of overheating then do the above if only the stator shows OH signs then replace the alt and they are not cheap so if you have the time maybe try the above and see what transpires soubds like you know what you are doing good luck and let me know the outcome
Also the direct connection you suggest will work but be sure to check all the connections they spread apart and cause a bad connection causing overheating and failure

FYI I do not recommend dielectric grease or any spray gunk on the battery terminals and do not use a battery protector washer or spray and never but anything between the terminal and the post the best protectant is a lite coating of clear lacquer but only on the posts not on the top of the battery it can cause transient voltage and may plug the vents on older batteries

[asdfgh1]

Crew Chief:

Thanks for the reply. Leaving for Ford Parts counter ASAP; will ask for the connector kit. I will glue the recepticle back together with epoxy after I see how the connector kit works.
There is no sign of OH [overheating] on the stator connector recepticle on the alternator. It is shiny copper as I have gently polished it with an ignition file and wiped it down with finger nail polish remover [my only source of acetone].

I will stop using dielectric grease on alternator connectors and battery terminals.

I will keep you informed of my progress and roadblocks.

Thanks again for the help.

asdfgh1

[Crew Chief]

Worded my reply wrong use dielectric on the connectors but dont use anything on the battery terminals see latest on home page

[asdfgh1]

Chief:

I installed alternator. I called the Ford dealer and they did not have an alternator 'connector kit'. I did not glue the broken off plastic piece back into the area surrounding the stator blade. I did use a new connector as you suggested. I cut off the old plastic connector. I used a .187 inch female disconnect that will accept a 22-18 ga wire. The connector is too wide for the stator blade so I compressed one side of the female connector and forced the other side over the stator blade. The stator blade is wedged between the compressed side and the edge of the connector. A tight fit. I forgot to use dielectric grease on that connection. I used shrink tubing over the insulated female connector. I placed the wire and connector back inside the oem, 3/8 inch i.d., plastic conduit. Then I attached the conduit to a black cable housing that may be the throttle linkage cable housing. I used a plastic cable tie. I do not think that cable housing moves. I attached the battery cables and started through the in-vehicle testing. The vehicle checked out ok. The charge indicator light is off while the engine is running at idle. The instrument panel voltage meter needle points to '10 o'clock'. In the past, a 10 o'clock reading at idle has corresponded to 14.5 volts across the battery on my hand-held volt meter.

The charge indicator light illumination has been an intermittant problem. The stator connection may have caused the problem. I realize that the problem could have another cause. I will drive this car for a few days to see if the charge indicator light illuminates again at operating speeds. At that point I will continue with further 'in-vehicle' testing.

Do you have other suggestions? Advise.

asdfgh1

Crew Chief:

Thanks for the reply. Leaving for Ford Parts counter ASAP; will ask for the connector kit. I will glue the recepticle back together with epoxy after I see how the connector kit works.
There is no sign of OH [overheating] on the stator connector recepticle on the alternator. It is shiny copper as I have gently polished it with an ignition file and wiped it down with finger nail polish remover [my only source of acetone].

I will stop using dielectric grease on alternator connectors and battery terminals.

I will keep you informed of my progress and roadblocks.

Thanks again for the help.

asdfgh1

[Crew Chief]

It sounds like you are OK let me know if this repair lasts this has been a long term problem with these alts next one I find I will try this repair
What ever happened to dealerships carrying or supplying parts it is getting to a point where if it not expensive they don't carry it we have become a replacement society nobody takes the time to repair such as you did my congratulation and salutations

[asdfgh1]

It sounds like you are OK let me know if this repair lasts this has been a long term problem with these alts next one I find I will try this repair
What ever happened to dealerships carrying or supplying parts it is getting to a point where if it not expensive they don't carry it we have become a replacement society nobody takes the time to repair such as you did my congratulation and salutations

Chief:

We have been driving this repair for 4 days. All is well. I hope it holds. Thanks for the help.

asdfgh1

[asdfgh1]

It sounds like you are OK let me know if this repair lasts this has been a long term problem with these alts next one I find I will try this repair
What ever happened to dealerships carrying or supplying parts it is getting to a point where if it not expensive they don't carry it we have become a replacement society nobody takes the time to repair such as you did my congratulation and salutations

Chief:

I last added to this thread in FEB07 and you asked how this repair worked. I think enough time has past and enough miles logged to comment on the repair.

I have driven only [152229 - 145572] = 6657 miles on this vehicle since the last post but nearly 2 years have past. Unfortunately repairing the connector did not solve the problem. Within 2 months [APR07] the issue recurred.

In APR07 I decided to check the brushes. They were in good condition but I found that one brush lead was hung up on the 'brush bracket' and that one of the brushes was gummed up and did not move freely. I cleaned the bracket making certain that the brush moved freely in the bracket and rerouted the brush lead.

I have had no further charging problems.

[Crew Chief]

Thank you for the update I wish more members would let us know the outcome, good or bad.

I have run across a few alternators not charging at highway speeds and the cause was a hung up brush. Usually on a reman, I suspect it was caused by inadaquete cleaning when rebuilt. Not to many techs today will take the time to dissssamble an alternator. They throw a reman and off they go. I can see there point it cuts way back on the comebacks.