Catalytic Converters

Catalytic Converters The term Catalytic Converter covers the stainless steel box mounted in the exhaust system. Inside the cover is the catalyst, a ceramic or metallic base with an active coating incorporating alumina, ceria and other oxides and combinations of the precious metals platinum, palladium and rhodium. The base can be protected from vibration and shock by a resilient ceramic or metallic ‘mat’img”>images/news/icons/source.gif[/img”> News source: About Auto Repair The main by-products of combustion are: Nitrogen gas (N2): Our atmosphere is 78 percent nitrogen gas, and most of this passes right through the car engine. Carbon Dioxide (CO2): A harmless, odorless gas composed of carbon and oxygen. It is also a greenhouse gas that contributes to global warming. Water vapor (H2O): Another by-product of combustion. Sponsored LinksScrap Converter BuyersTop prices paid for any quantity of used catalytic converters.[url”>www.adccatalyticconverters.comBuy a Catalytic ConverterCatalytic Converters on Sale now We Match or Beat any Price![url”>www.autopartswarehouse.comFree Catalytic ConverterMagnaflow Universal Catalytic Converter. Submit Offers.automotive-offer.comThe hydrogen in the fuel bonds with the oxygen in the air. These three emissions are mostly harmless, although carbon dioxide emissions are believed to contribute to global warming. However since the combustion process is never perfect, other more harmful emissions are produced in the process. Carbon monoxide (CO): A colorless, odorless gas. It is poisonous and extremely dangerous in confined areas, building up slowly to toxic levels without warning if adequate ventilation is not available. Hydrocarbons or volatile organic compounds (VOCs): Any chemical compound made up of hydrogen and carbon. Oxides of nitrogen (NOx): Chemical compounds of nitrogen, they combine with hydrocarbons to produce smog. These are the three main regulated emissions, and also the ones that catalytic converters are designed to reduce. Catalytic converters can either be an oxidation or three-way type. Oxidation catalysts convert carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC) to carbon dioxide (CO2) and water, but have little effect on nitrogen oxides (NOx) and particulate matter. Three-way catalysts operate in a closed-loop system together with a lambda, or oxygen, sensor to regulate the air/fuel ratio on Fuel engines. The catalyst can then at the same time oxidize CO and HC to CO2 and water while reducing NOx to nitrogen. Most cars today are equipped with a three-way catalytic converter. The term Three-way refers to the three emissions it helps to reduce, carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons or volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and NOx molecules. The converter uses two different types of catalysts, a reduction catalyst and an oxidization catalyst. Both types consist of a base structure coated with a catalyst such as platinum, rhodium and/or palladium. The scheme is to create a structure that exposes the maximum surface area of the catalyst to the exhaust flow, while also minimizing the amount of catalyst required. The inside of the catalytic converter is a honeycomb set of passageways or small ceramic beads coated with catalysts. A chemical reaction takes place to make the pollutants less harmful. There are many passages for the exhaust gases to flow, to allow for the maximum amount of surface area for the hot gases to pass. In order to reduce emissions, modern car engines carefully control the amount of fuel they burn. They try to keep the air-to-fuel ratio very close to the stoichiometric point, which is the calculated ideal ratio of air to fuel. Theoretically, at this ratio, all of the fuel will be burned using all of the oxygen in the air. For Fuel engines the stoichiometric ratio is about 14.7:1. This means that for every pound of Fuel, 14.7 pounds of air will be burned. As engine and driving conditions change, this ratio changes as well. Sometimes it will run richer or leaner than the ideal 14.7:1.The Reduction Catalyst: The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the catalytic converter. It uses platinum and rhodium to help reduce the NOx emissions. When an NO or NO2 molecule contacts the catalyst, the catalyst rips the nitrogen atom out of the molecule and holds on to it, freeing the oxygen in the form of O2. The nitrogen atoms bond with other nitrogen atoms that are also stuck to the catalyst, forming N2.Oxidation Catalysts: Palladium (Pd) and platinum (Pt) metals in very small amounts convert the hydrocarbons of unburned Fuel and carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide and water. This catalyst aids the reaction of the CO and hydrocarbons with the remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas. But where did this oxygen come from?The third stage is a control system that monitors the exhaust stream, and uses this information to regulate the air/fuel mixture. There is an oxygen sensor mounted in front of the catalytic converter, meaning it is between the engine and the converter. The O2 sensor tells the engine ECU how much oxygen is in the exhaust.The ECU can increase or decrease the amount of oxygen in the exhaust by adjusting the air/fuel mixture. In this way the ECU can make sure that the engine is running as close to the stoichiometric point, and also ensure there is enough oxygen in the exhaust to allow the oxidization catalyst to burn the unburned hydrocarbons and CO.The catalytic converter does an efficient job of reducing the vehicle emissions, but there are ways it can be improved. Sponsored LinksBuy a Catalytic ConverterCatalytic Converters on Sale now We Match or Beat any Price![url”>www.autopartswarehouse.comCatalytic ConvertersOEM and Aftermarket Converters VW, Audi, Honda, Volvo and others.[url”>www.performancecatalytic.comFree Catalytic ConverterMagnaflow Universal Catalytic Converter. Submit Offers.automotive-offer.comOne of the biggest drawbacks is that it only works at a fairly high temperature. When you start your car cold, the catalytic converter does next to nothing to reduce the vehicle emissions. The catalytic converter does an efficient job of reducing the vehicle emissions, but there are ways it can be improved. One of the biggest drawbacks is that it only works at a fairly high temperature. When you start your car cold, the catalytic converter does next to nothing to reduce the vehicle emissions. The simplest solution is to move the catalytic converter closer to the engine. This allows hot exhaust gases to get to the converter and it heat it up faster. This could also reduce the life of the converter by exposing it to extremely high temperatures. Most carmakers position the converter under the front seats, just far enough from the engine to keep the temperature at a level that will not damage it.The simplest solution is to move the catalytic converter closer to the engine. This allows hot exhaust gases to get to the converter and it heat it up faster. This could also reduce the life of the converter by exposing it to extremely high temperatures. Most carmakers position the converter under the front seats, just far enough from the engine to keep the temperature at a level that will not damage it.Why do converters go bad? There are two ways a converter can fail, it can become clogged or it can be poisoned. When catalytic converters fail they normally clog up with debris and block the flow of exhaust gas from getting out of the system. This will cause tremendous performance problems. In extreme cases it will prevent the vehicle from starting at all. Most of the time it just limits engine performance by choking the flow through the engine. So how do you check a catalytic converter without removing it from the car?? Sometimes an indication that a converter is clogged is that you don’t go any faster when you push the gas pedal down. In addition there usually is a noticeable drop in fuel economy associated with a clogged catalytic converter. A totally clogged converter will cause the engine to die because of the increased backpressure. There is no way for anyone to actually see a clog in a converter. Usually the only way to tell if a catalytic converter is clogged is to remove it and check the change in engine performance. When a mechanic suspects a clogged converter they may remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe and see if there is a change in performance. A catalytic converter relies on receiving the proper mix of exhaust gases at the proper temperature. Some engine oil additives or engine problems that cause the mixture or the temperature of the exhaust gases to change reduce the effectiveness and life of the catalytic converter. Leaded Fuel and the over-use of fuel additives can shorten the life of a catalytic converter considerably. Even some gasket sealers and cements can poison a converter. A catalytic converter can also fail because of certain other factors. A number of problems could occur to the catalytic converter as the result of an engine that is out of tune. Any time an engine is operating outside proper specifications, unnecessary wear and damage may be caused to the catalytic converter as well as the engine itself. The damage is often the result of an incorrect air/fuel mixture, incorrect timing, or misfiring spark plugs. Any of these conditions could lead to a catalytic converter failure or worse.Fouled plugs can cause unburned fuel to overheat the converter and melt the catalyst to a solid mass. If the O2 Sensor is not functioning properly it will give the ECU incorrect readings of exhaust gasses. The faulty sensor can cause an excessively rich or excessively lean condition. If the mixture is too rich, the catalyst can melt down. If the mixture is too lean, the converter is unable to convert the hydrocarbons into safe elements.Oil or antifreeze entering the exhaust system can block the air passages by creating heavy carbon soot that coats the catalyst. These heavy carbon deposits will cause two problems. First, the carbon deposits prevent the catalytic converter from reducing harmful emission in the exhaust flow. And second, the carbon deposits clog the pores in the ceramic catalyst and block exhaust flow, increasing backpressure and causing heat and exhaust to back up into the engine compartment. Sponsored LinksBuy a Catalytic ConverterCatalytic Converters on Sale now We Match or Beat any Price![url”>www.autopartswarehouse.comFree Catalytic ConverterMagnaflow Universal Catalytic Converter. Submit Offers.automotive-offer.comCatalytic Converters?Brief and Straightforward Guide to Catalytic Converterswisegeek.comYour engine may actually draw burnt exhaust gasses back into the combustion chamber and dilute the efficiency of the next burn cycle. The result is a loss of power and overheated engine components.Catalytic converters can be physically damaged as well. The catalyst contained inside a catalytic converter is made from a lightweight, thin-walled, fragile material. It is protected by a dense, insulating mat. This mat holds the catalyst in place and provides moderate protection against damage. Broken support hangers can cause the converter to bounce around and the result can be breakage of the mat. Rocks or other road debris can also hit the converter, causing the internal mat to break also. Off road vehicles often suffer this type of converter failure. Once this mat starts to break up, it will collect in the smaller passages and clog the converter.The catalytic converter should last the lifetime of the vehicle it is installed in. if it does fail, it is most often a symptom of another problem. This problem must be identified and repaired or the new converter will fail in the same manner. You can keep it running well by keeping the ignition system in top shape and to prevent any unburnt fuel from entering the catalytic converter.Here is an important safety reminder: Do not park your car over tall grass or piles of dry leaves. Your cars perfectly running catalytic converter gets very hot… enough to start fires!

Troubleshooting basics

The secret of effective diagnosis and troubleshooting is to have a logical plan. The secret of effective diagnosis and troubleshooting is to have a logical, well-ordered system. Following a logical step-by-step procedure will get you to the root cause of a problem quickly and efficiently. Repair manuals will have a diagnostic tree that goes in a logical progression. It will ask a question, usually yes or no, and depending on the answer will branch off in two or more directions. The last box in the tree will have the problem and how to correct it. The example shown is a simple one. A more complicated system will have branches going into specific tests and then have 2 or more branches from there depending on test results. You will need some basic test equipment to perform your diagnosis. A 12-volt test will tell you if a circuit has power or, when hooked up in reverse, will tell you if a ground circuit is good. News source: Auto Repair About A good volt-ohm-meter (VOM) will be needed to perform specific voltage and resistance tests. You can get a good meter at any Radio Shack or Best Buy store. A digital meter is an excellent choice because they are easier to read than an analog meter. I have both digital and analog meters in my toolbox because sometimes an analog meter is best for a certain job. Most VOM’s have an ammeter that will test the alternator output and test for current draws. Make sure the one you buy has it. If you have an older car with a point equipped ignition system, you will need a dwell meter as well to measure and adjust the dwell angle of the points. As with any piece of equipment, read the instructions that come with your meter. It will tell you what the various functions are and how to connect the meter to the circuit for accurate test results. Most meters have a fuse in them to protect them from an incorrect connection. Make sure the one you buy has one and get a couple of spare fuses. You will, at some point, hook it up wrong and be very thankful you have the spares. I know I have. Most of the troubleshooting on today’s cars will be electrical in nature. A good wiring diagram is essential to properly troubleshoot any electrical circuit. They usually come in two parts, a schematic and the wiring diagram. The schematic shows the different components of a system and how they relate to each other. The wiring diagram shows the actual wire colors and connections. For testing the mechanical side of the engine, you will need some more specialized equipment. A vacuum gauge with several adapters can be used to test manifold vacuum and test vacuum operated circuits. A hand vacuum pump is handy for testing vacuum operated components such as EGR valves and heating and air conditioning systems.Once that is done, you need to check the basics. I don’t know how many people get burned looking for a complicated answer when it’s a simple answer. If your house started leaning to the left, you wouldn’t check the roof first. You would check the foundation. Same thing with a car, the foundation has to be sound before you look anywhere else. With a drivability problem, the first thing you should check is the spark plugs. They will tell you a lot about the condition of the engine if you know how to read them. Check to make sure they are the correct plugs for that car. Don’t automatically get the same ones that were in there. Check them. Maybe the guy who tuned it up before you put the wrong ones in. Use AC Delco plugs in GM, Champion in Chrysler, Motorcraft in Fords and NGK’s in Japanese cars. After the spark plugs you need to check the ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor.Sponsored LinksFree Auto Repair InfoAnswers to Auto Repair FAQ Free Information & Advicedigitalprecision.net/auto_repairAuto Repair ManualGet answers to your car problems Free info on Auto Repair ManualAuto-Repair-Manuals.big.comAutomotive Repair GuideAuto Repair Answers, Software Free Info & Resource, Manualswww.theoffering.com/auto_repairMake sure the plug wires are tight on the plugs and there are no cracks or burns on them. A quick test is while the car is running, spray water from a spray bottle on them. If the car starts to stumble or run rough, or you see sparks arcing, you need new wires. Look inside the distributor cap for cracks and burns. If you see any, replace it. The same goes for the rotor. If the tip is burned out, replace it. If in doubt, replace any of these parts. The cost is small and you will know that they are in good shape to continue troubleshooting. These are the most common causes of misfires and rough engine performance. The next thing to check is the vacuum lines. Make sure they are connected and in good shape. Trace the whole line for cracks, breaks and collapsed areas. Murphy’s Law stipulates that a cracked or broken vacuum line will be in the most hidden place in the car. After that you need to check for loose electrical connections. Unplug the connectors and look at the terminals. Dirty, loose or corroded connections will cause a world of strange symptoms and intermittent problems. Check the filters as well. A new air and fuel filter will solve quite a few drivability problems. Do the same thing for electrical problems. Check the fuses and fusible links first. Check connections to see that they are clean and tight. Check light bulbs to see if they are just burnt out and the correct type. I had a customer bring a car in and said every time he stepped on the brake his dash lights came on. What he did was put the wrong type of bulb in his brake light and it would feed back into the dash. A dishonest mechanic would have had a field day with this one. He would replace the bulb and charge 5 hours labor locating and repairing a short. In short, check all the stupid things first. Don’t take anything for granted. Car won’t start? Check the gas gauge first. That one burned me a couple of times. When you look for an electrical problem look at it from all angles. Literally look at it forward and backwards. Will it be easier to trace from the component to the fuse box or vice versa? If you are tracing a wire, is the connector buried in the dash? Look at the wiring diagram and find another location to make the same test in a more accessible location. You’ll get the same results in a much shorter time. Lastly check the computer for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s). For this you will need a scanner or a service manual that explains how to pull the DTC’s up manually. If you get a bad injector circuit code, don’t assume it’s a bad injector. That code is telling you it’s in the injector circuit and that includes the wiring, injectors, dropping resistors (on older EFI cars) and computer. Any one of which will throw that code. Get your wiring diagram out and check the whole circuit. Too many parts get replaced because “the computer said it was the fuel pump.” Don’t get burned buying an expensive part only to have it not fix your problem. When you have found the problem and completed making the repair, check it again. Make sure it is fixed. Sometimes one fault will cause another one that you couldn’t see at first. For example, there is a shorted wire between the injector and the computer. You fix the wire and take it for a ride and it still misses. Well you didn’t see that the shorted wire burned out the injector. When you test the circuit again, you will see that the injector needs to be replaced also. Double-check your diagnosis; double-check your work and double-check the repair. Troubleshooting a problem can be tough, even in the best of circumstances, but by following some simple rules, using the right test equipment properly and some common sense, you will locate and repair most problems with your vehicle yourself.

Brake Repairs

Heed these tips and you’re on your way to ensuring your brakes won’t fail:Tip #1: Keep the hydraulic reservoir at the proper level with the fluid type recommended by the car manufacturer. Never substitute or mix types of fluid. Remember also that hydraulic fluid absorbs water. Never use old hydraulic fluid – always use a fresh container.Tip #2: Keep brakes clean by washing them off at the same time as your car. This keeps squeaky dust and dirt off the pads and makes brakes easier to inspect and work on.Tip #3: Never spray, touch or drip any oil or lubricants on the brake friction surfaces. If this occurs, spray immediately with brake cleaner to remove completely.Tip #4: There are no shortcuts or quick fixes to brake problems. They either function properly or they don’t. Know your brake system – how it should work, feel and sound – before it acts up so you’ll know when something’s wrong.Tip #5: Most imports don’t have serviceable rotors. They must be replaced at the same time as the pads. The rotors cannot be “turned” to remove imperfections. There isn’t sufficient metal thickness to safely accomplish this.Tip #6: Keep a repair log with receipts when any service is performed on your car. It helps when you need to check if your warranty is still in effect. More importantly, it’s a great gauge of performance and an indicator of other problems.Tip #7: Whenever the pads are replaced, the hydraulic system must be bled to remove any air bubbles. Most specialists recommend changing the fluid with every pad replacement. If you’re unsure of the proper technique for bleeding the hydraulic system, don’t perform the job yourself. Seek help from a professional. ABS equipped cars should be bled only by professionals.Tip #8: Most noises are usually related to your pads. However, whenever replacing pads, you should also replace the sensors and seriously consider replacing the rotors at the same time.Tip #9: After installing new pads, remember to “set” them properly. This conditions them for maximum performance and prevents premature failure. Instructions for setting pads is usually provided in the package with your new pads News source: Autohaus

Anti Freeze

That time of year to discuss engine coolant There are several different types of coolant Good old ethylene glycol the old standby and works great but has a short life span worse in newer aluminum engines(drain and refill every 2 years)Extended life great for aluminum engines and has a longer life span but GM has expressed some concerns about how long that is ( drain and refill every 3 years)Notice I said drain not flush The so called power flush at most chains ends up to be a drain and refill a few do it correctly but this is rare Drain and refill is a simple task you can do yourself the hardest part is being sure you have all the air removed and bleeding if necessary. As a general rule if the heater is blowing hot the system is OK and on most newer vehicles there is a bleed screw in the area of the stat. Worse case scenario leave the cap off overnight and usually the air will bleed out of its own accord.Last but not least dont check the coolant for strength only but also have the condition checked yearly. Dont count on it to look bad as many times it will look fine and be worn out.Last but not least check the parastic voltage of the coolant. Using a lab scope or a good Vohm meter go from the coolant to ground the voltage present will surprise you check it clean so you have a reference point also consider a seperate ground from the rad

Restrictor Plates

NASCAR issues smaller Resitrctor Plates at Talladega MORE: NASCAR will issue restrictor plates with smaller holes for the rest of the UAW-Ford 500 weekend as teams scrambled Saturday morning to get their cars ready for qualifying. The new restrictor plates will have four holes of seven-eighths of an inch in diameter, one-64th of an inch smaller than the ones used in practice Friday when #24-Jeff Gordon reached a speed of 198.689 mph in the opening session at Talladega Superspeedway. The change should slow the speeds by 2-5 mph, according to crew chiefs,. Teams were informed of the change Saturday morning. There are no practice sessions left on the schedule and the cars will be impounded after qualifying. NASCAR officials are expected to address the media concerning the change later this morning. The speeds are higher than they have been at Talladega because of the repaved surface, which is much smoother than the old surface.(SceneDaily.com)(10-7-2006FYI 1/64 Of an inch is slightly more than a post card thickness but when you remove it from a circle 4 times it does add up but will the normal 20 car wreck now be 25 time will tell also with no time to test will this affect engine life and or fuel mileage where is the power curve going to be it was almost non existentAny math geniuses out there how much is the actual area decreasedPS Shame on you Mark Martin where is your loyality I may change my hope you will win the championship News source: Jayski Silly Season

# 29 Harvick

GM Goodwrench will not sponsor the 29 car next or so the rumor mill says Reeses will be the sponsor along with a Fuel lubricant company maybe I should start paying more attention to GM crying wolf as to how broke they are the mill is also talking about a Ford GM merger this I find hard to believe a rice burner maybe but not Ford Update it looks like GM will sponsor 26 races and Reeses 13I think this change is more to keep investors at bay and will change as time passesand still only a rumor with a few statements from RCR that splits up the season

Brake Fluid change

Changing the many fluids in a vehicle is always a change for the better. Dirty engine oil, transmission fluid or anti-freeze are bad news for a car. But what about brake fluid? Many motorists know that this fluid should be topped off, but changed? According to the Car Care Council brake fluid in the typical vehicle can become contaminated in two years or less. This is because the fluid absorbs moisture, which works its way through the hydraulic system. Under heavy braking conditions, such as those encountered in mountainous or hilly driving or when towing a trailer, moisture in the overheated fluid vaporizes (boiling point of water is lower than that of brake fluid) and braking efficiency is reduced. “Even under normal driving conditions this condition can develop if the brake fluid is seriously contaminated” says Rich White, spokesperson for the Car Care Council. “Not only is the fluid vulnerable to vaporizing, it also can freeze. Brake fluid must maintain a stable viscosity throughout its operating temperature range. If it’s too thick or too thin, braking action is impaired. Beyond the vaporization hazard, moisture creates an additional problem for owners of vehicles equipped with anti-lock braking (ABS) systems. Rusted and corroded ABS components are very expensive to replace. How does a car owner know when to have fluid changed? The Council recommends replacement every two years or 24,000 miles. “Certainly it should be included with brake pad or shoe replacement,” White emphasizes. “In between, as a preventive measure, a professional brake technician should check the condition of the fluid with an accurate fluid test safety meter, which is inserted into the master cylinder reservoir to record the fluid’s boiling point News source: NASCAR.com

Bad Grounds

We have had several questions on grounds lately. Poor grounds account for a majority of the electrical problems that involve several circuits When you check a ground dont just look at it take it apart and clean all surfaces until they are bare metal or do a voltage drop test( more on this later)A shot of clear lacquer over the connection is also a good idea or clear spray paint I aslo do this to the battery connections it is not as messy as battery protector and I think it covers better

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